Saint Honoré w/ Crème Chiboust - Bruno Albouze - THE REAL DEAL

Saint Honoré Gâteau Recipe.

Yield ≈ 10 Servings

Saint Honoré cake is traditionally filled with crème Chiboust using a special Saint Honoré pastry tip. Although many other variations exist, vanilla whipped cream, or creme diplomate or a combination of both; Chiboust and Chantilly are common as well. Crème Chiboust is a crème pâtissière (pastry cream) lightened with Italian meringue suitable for soufflé recipe as well. Crème Diplomate is a pastry cream lightened with whipped cream.
The Chiboust cream is suitable for all recipes calling for pâte à choux and it was widely used back in days for its profitability.
Pastry Chef Chiboust who in 1846 created St Honoré; a cake named in honor of the pastry shop that was located on the Paris street Rue Saint-Honoré and also in honor of St. Honoré, the patron saint of bakers and pastry cooks.

Puff Pastry
To learn how to make your own puff pastry from scratch; watch the inverted puff pastry video.
Otherwise use store-bought frozen puff pastry ≈ a pound (450g).

Thaw pastry in the refrigerator overnight. Roll puff pastry out on a lightly floured surface into a 0.11 inch (3mm) thick sheet. Prick pastry generously using a fork or a pic-vite roller docker to prevent dough from puffing up too much. Cut into a 8 inch (20cm) disk; for 8 servings. You can make a larger one or 2. Place disks of dough on a humidified silicone mat or parchment paper to prevent dough from shrinking and keep refrigerated or freeze for later use. Save scraps, overlap them and chill. Repeat the rolling process and chill again to rest. Cut pastry sheet into 3.5 inch (9cm) individual disk if desired and refrigerate.

Pâte à Choux
1/2 cup (125ml) water
1/2 cup (125ml) milk
8 Tbsp (125g) unsalted butter
1 tsp (5g) salt
2 tsp (10g) granulated sugar
1 cups (150g) all-purpose flour
4 to 5 ea. (200g to 250g) large eggs
Powdered sugar for dusting.

Bring water, milk, butter, sugar and salt to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat. Using a wooden spoon, quickly stir in flour. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until mixture pulls away from sides for about a minute. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or whisk if using a Magic Mill Mixer. Mix on low speed for about 1 minute to get the steam out and cool down a bit, then add two-third of the eggs at once and beat on low speed until a soft peak forms when batter is touched with your finger.

Saint Honoré Piping
Pipe a thin 1/2 inch (1.2cm) thick ring of dough on the edge of the pastry. For the large piece only, pipe out a snail’s shell from the center; this will strengthen the base of the cake and stabilize the filling. Pipe out 30 or more small puffs. Dust powdered sugar and bake. At that point, the unbaked shells can be made in advance and kept frozen for weeks.

Bake in a preheated 350ºF (180ºC) oven. Bake pâte à choux in the middle of the oven for 40 minutes; one sheet at the time. Do not open the oven door during baking or it will deflate. Then, turn oven off leaving the door ajar for 15 minutes. The small puffs wont need more time to dry out though. Remove from oven and let cool completely on wire rack. If using a convection oven, the baking time may be shortened by 5 minute or so.

Chiboust Cream

2 cups (500ml) whole milk
1 Tbsp (15g) granulated sugar
1/2 Tbsp (7.5ml) vanilla extract
4 ea. (80g) egg yolks
2 Tbsp (30g) granulated sugar
2 Tbsp (20g) all purpose flour
2 Tbsp (20g) corn starch
4 grams gelatin sheet or powder. (The gelatin stabilizes the Chiboust but optional).

Italian Meringue
4 ea. (120g) egg whites, room temp
1/2 tsp (2g) cream of tartar or lemon juice (it stabilize the whites)
0.8 cup (150g) sugar (granulated or cubes)
3 Tbsp (45g) water
A few drops of lemon juice or 2 Tbsp (30ml) of corn syrup (this prevent sugar from crystalizing).

Chiboust Method
If using it, soak gelatin in cold water for a few minutes and drain. Bring milk, sugar and vanilla to a simmer. Meanwhile, beat yolks and sugar to blend. Add flour and corn starch. Turn off the heat. Pour in hot milk gradually into the yolk mixture whisking constantly. Return saucepan to the stove. Bring to boil and cook for 2 minutes whisking swiftly. Turn off the heat and add the softened gelatin. Cover the custard and set aside. In a clean mixer bowl, add the room temp egg whites along with the cream of tartar. Set mixer speed to medium-low and beat. In this method the meringue is never formed before adding the hot sugar but rather remains in liquid stage and slightly foamy. For the syrup, cook on medium high heat for 5 minutes; covered. Remove the lid and continue to cook until syrup reaches 240/250ºF (118/121ºC). Pour hot syrup in a thin stream down the side of the mixer bowl. Increase speed to high and whip until the meringue is formed but not too firm. In the mean time, smooth out custard with a whisk and mix in one-third of the Italian meringue; swiftly. Then, with a rubber spatula fold in half of the remaining meringue then the other half. Transfer Chiboust onto a clean baking tray. Use it warm or at room temperature. Fill puffs and refrigerate. Save remaining Chibloust for the St Honoré.

Wet Caramel
1/4 cup (60ml) light corn syrup or glucose or add a few drops of lemon juice
1/4 cup (60ml) water
1.1 lb. (250g) sugar cubes or granulated sugar

In a small saucepan combine corn syrup, water and sugar. Cover and cook mixture on hight heat for 5 minutes; this will self clean the sides of the saucepan. Avoid stirring mixture until caramel stage is reached. Remove the lid, reduce heat to medium high and cook to light amber caramel; 335°F (165ºC). Immerse the bottom of the saucepan in cold water quickly to stop cooking.

Whipped Cream / Chantilly (optional)
2 cups (500ml) heavy cream
1 tsp (5ml) vanilla extract or 1 vanilla bean, scrap out seeds
1 Tbsp (15g) sugar
Whip all ingredients in a chilled mixer bowl to soft peaks.

Saint Honoré Assembly
Dip one-third of each filled puff in caramel and place it head side down on a silicone mat or greased parchment paper or a nonstick pan. If caramel hardens, reheat it. When the caramelized puffs have set, begin to assemble the cake. Dip each bottom puff in caramel and place them side by side on the ring of dough; about 18 choux – depending on the size of course. Use 3 puffs for the individual cakes. Fill St honoré with a thick layer of Chiboust and top with a nice finish using the St Honoré pastry tip for best results. St Honoré can be finished with vanilla whipped cream as well.

Top large Saint Honoré with a puff and sprinkle some crushed caramelized nuts (see Paris-Brest recipe) for individuals. Better served the same day!. Although caramel does not like humidity, this cake can bear the refrigeration for a day – Enjoy!

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